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Blog 204 - Alaska & West Canada for 2 Septuagenarians, a travel blog
- Keef Hellinger
- Oct 8, 2024
- 30 min read
Updated: Oct 14, 2024
Created by KeefH Web Designs , October 8th, 2024, 9.06 AM
Not The Motorhome trip No 23 : 23 days, 13th September to 5th October 2024
MENU for this Travel Blog
INTRODUCTION
We have wanted to be in the position to write THIS travel blog since 1999 for numerous reasons 1. We wanted to do the Rocky Mountaineer train journey when we motorhomed with Doug aged 15, in the western provinces but just couldn't afford it 2. We spent a long time about 20 years ago trying to plan an Alaska trip but again boats & planes was the only real solution, you could motorhome to Dawson city, Whitehorse and Skagway but with no roads / inaccessible roads the boat / float plane solution was too expensive. Luckily my dear sister Linda told us on a visit they were doing a cruise to Alaska and we cheekily asked if they could put up with us coming along... a WIN-WIN in my book.
This travel blog goes into much more detail, feel free to dive in or just select the bits that take your fancy from the MENU.
Its the adventure we chose to celebrate both our 3 score and 10 years. #fact
Feel free to look at our complete North American travel over time!
MAPS
For this travel blog I show the route map and directions and showing our trip was really in 4 parts. 1) Cruise to Alaska 2) Time on Vancouver Island with friends 3) Car hire travelling for Vancouver to Stettler in the Prairies then back to Banff 4) The Rocky Mountaineer train ride thru both Mountain Time zone and the Pacific time zone, zones changed round about Golden.
And here is a more glossy view of the whole trip, to compare with the first image
So the trip was inside passage, Icy straits point, Skagway, Endicott arm, Dawes glacier, Juneau, Ketchikan, Inside passage, Vancouver, Tsawwassen, Swartz Bay (Vancouver Island), Cordova Bay, Victoria, Saanich, Vancouver, car hire, drive through most of the Trans Canada Highway in BC and Alberta, including Hope, Merritt, Kamloops, Chase, Salmon Arm, Sicamous, Revelstoke, Glacier NP, Rogers Pass, Golden (time for a clock change), Lake Louise, Banff, Canmore (site of hugely overpriced motels), Kananaskis NP, the Stoney trail around the north west of Calgary, Airdrie, Red Deer and onto Stettler for 2 days, then back to Banff, drop off hire car then travel back to Vancouver by the Rocky Mountaineer train giving a very different view from the road of the terrain.
CALENDAR
This is our calendar post trip which mostly matches my pre planning exactly but with a bit more of the detail fleshed out with exactly what we did each day. It was an absolutely memorable trip and we both loved every moment of it.
PANORAMAS
Some additional facts and comments
Icy Straits point is owned wholly by the local indigenous peoples known as the Tlingit (pronounced KLINK-it) peoples and you can walk into their small village of Hoonah from there. It is the highest point in southern Alaska our cruise ship the Solstice went on this cruise. At this time of year especially getting to Anchorage in the north is tricky iceberg wise, indeed the ship's captain noted that as we approached Dawes glacier he had never seen so much broken off ice.
The Charlotte and the Quail gardens is a wholly gluten free restaurant, food to die for and you then get cheaper admission to their gardens which are spectacular, we were so lucky with the weather.
Juneau is the capital of Alaska, a fine place but in our humble opinion not as nice as Skagway which has a real Klondike gold rush feel about it. I went up the Goldbelt tram ride to the top of Mount Roberts. Spectacular views although at the time we had to fight the mist and weren't allowed out at the top as a bear was there 2 days before. Joe Juneau was a gold prospector whom the capital was named after.
The centre of the universe observatory in Saanich, near Victoria, Vancouver island gives spectacular views of the surroundings and on a clear day, which we got, you can see across the border into Washington State and the Olympic mountains.
The road to Stettler took us through much of what we would think of a very flat Prairie lands, indeed the line is you can see your dog run for 5 days, however off the David Thompson highway and around the Summer river it was much hillier than we had expected. The farmland stretched for miles. David Thompson the cartographer, is well respected in this area and both the Thompson river and lake we encountered on our Rocky Mountaineer trip pay further homage to him. A man after my own heart, if i had lived in a different era I would like to have been him, but just maybe in Australia instead.
FAMILY AND FRIENDS
Our adventures were seriously enhanced by these wonderful people, our lovely family and friends.
Linda and Ian, my lovely sister and hubby whom we did the Alaska cruise with, especially for decorating the outside of our cabin door with some embarrassing old photos and all the lovely 70 memorabilia pressies which just to serve as a reminder we are getting old, not mentally, I'm still 21 but the body doesn't seem to be able to downgrade to follow suit. Sadly the elixir of eternal yoof on eBay was sold out. Thanks folks!
David and Cathy, our lovely pals from Edmonton , Alberta who happen to be house sitting in Cordova Bay on Vancouver Island and suggested the lovely Air B&B we stayed in, which was just down the road from them. Their warmth, generosity and trip advisor 5 star tour guides were to be wholly admired, we had some great times together , shared a lot of laughs and saw a whole lot more of Victoria and surrounds than we would ever have managed on our own. Thanks folks!
Rob and Sandy, Annie's cousin Rob whom she had never met, he was born in London but left for Canada when he was only 18 months old, we have had contact with them over the years whilst working on an old aunt's India memoires , so it was just so special to finally meet up with them in Steller, Alberta. They live in Lloyd (Lloydminster to non Canadians) so Stettler was kinda half way between Banff and Lloyd. Rob is also a 1954er (what a great year eh?) so the 3 score and 10 theme continues. Great times folks, thanks. We will keep in contact.
A new friend Sunny Ng, part Malaysian, part Chinese, who became our de facto taxi / limo driver for all our hopping around places, we met Sunny on our first arrival in Vancouver as he ferried us out to the University of British Columbia's (UBC) Carey Centre, department of Theology. What a lovely man, so friendly, knowledgeable and kind. He took a pic of us in the back of his limo and even stopped so we could get pix of the Coyote studying at UBC #haha
THE ROCKY MOUNTAINEER RAILWAY
We had so wanted to do this trip when we in Canada in 1999 with Doug when he was 15 but just could not afford it so as pensioners who are more than happy to give up their winter fuel allowance for the needy (as Ben Elton would say "bit of politics there" #smile ) we now decided we could afford it, having done some of the other worlds great train journeys, i.e. the Ghan and the Indian Pacific , it was so on our bucket list.
The Rocky Mountaineer's "First Passage to the West" route from Banff to Vancouver is a spectacular journey through the heart of the Canadian Rockies. Here are some key details:
Route Highlights
Banff to Kamloops: The journey begins in Banff, a charming mountain town, and travels through the Spiral Tunnels and Continental Divide. You'll witness breathtaking mountain passes and dramatic canyons.
Kamloops: After a full day on the train, you'll arrive in Kamloops, a lovely town where you can enjoy a stroll along the riverside.
Kamloops to Vancouver: The next day, the train continues its journey to Vancouver, offering stunning views of the Canadian wilderness along the way.
Experience
Daylight Travel: The train operates exclusively during the day, allowing you to soak in the scenery and take plenty of photos6.
Luxury and Comfort: You can choose between GoldLeaf Service with dome cars for panoramic views or SilverLeaf Service with comfortable seating.
Overnight Stops: Since the train doesn't offer sleeper services, you'll stay overnight in hotels at Kamloops.
Season and Schedule
Travel Season: The train operates from mid-April to mid-October. We were on the second to last trip which was great as snow had fallen on the 1st part of the journey.
Complimentary Transfers: Motorcoach transfers are provided between the train and hotels in Kamloops.
Passengers often describe the experience as "unforgettable and luxurious" and "the best way to explore Canada’s Rocky Mountains" and we would whole heartedly concur with that.
ALASKA
From Vancouver, in sequence we saw the Inside Passage, Icy Straits Point (Hoonah) , Skagway (amazing), Endicott Arm a long narrow fjord if you like leading to the Dawes Glacier, which the wonderful ship's captain got as close as he dared, he described it as the most icebergs he had ever seen there, it took a Titanic effort (geddit?) to avoid them #smile then we headed into Juneau , Alaska's capital, Ketchikan and returned to Vancouver on the inside passage past Vancouver Island.
Here are the ships daily newspapers delivered each night to our cabin, with chocolates no less, luxury indeed for us Septuagenarians.
Southern Alaska, up to Skagway, is a region rich in natural beauty and history. Here's a quick summary:
Geography
Southeast Alaska, also known as the Alaskan Panhandle, is a narrow strip of land extending about 500 miles from Misty Fjords National Monument to the base of Mt. Fairweather.
The region is characterized by its stunning Inside Passage, a network of waterways, fjords, and islands.
Key Locations
Juneau: The state capital, accessible only by boat or plane, known for its scenic views and outdoor activities.
Ketchikan: Known as the "Salmon Capital of the World," it's famous for its totem poles and rich Native American culture.
Skagway: A historic town that was a gateway to the Klondike Gold Rush, offering a glimpse into the past with its preserved buildings and museums.
Activities
Wildlife Viewing: Opportunities to see bears, whales, and eagles in their natural habitats.
Hiking and Boating: Numerous trails and waterways for outdoor enthusiasts.
Historic Tours: Explore the Gold Rush history in Skagway and other historic sites.
Transportation
Alaska Marine Highway: A ferry system that connects many communities along the Inside Passage.
White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad: A scenic train ride from Skagway to the Yukon border, offering breathtaking views.
SUNDAY 150924 FIRST DAY AT SEA ON THE SOLSTICE
After a hearty breakfast at the Carey centre on Endowment land at UBC Oscar picked us up about 11.05 am and drove us to the cruise ship terminal at Canada place in downtown Vancouver, you know the one that looks a bit like Utzon's Sydney Opera house #justsayin Canadian friends. Getting there in downtown was a nightmare, unbelievable levels of traffic controlled by the cops, if you are in the wrong lane you are going around again, 1 hour maybe, luckily Oscar has been there before. Traffic levels so intense as 4 cruise ships all in together with passengers coming and going. Anyhow we did the customs checks etc. and then much to my surprise but sheer delight because of my walking stick Annie and I were fast-tracked through everything and onto the ship. We were supposed to board 1.30 pm, got on by 12 noon, poor Linda was supposed to be on at 11.30 am but spent almost 3 hours queueing and Ian's legs were killing him. Anyhow Annie and I did the emergency learning stuff and headed to the buffet for an early lunch. Nice it was too. We then discovered our cabin for the next 7 days and our luggage arrived a bit later on in the evening. All very smooth. Great weather so some fab views from our balcony as it left Vancouver. Take a look!
MONDAY 160924 KEEF'S THREE SCORE & TEN BIRFDAY!
What you can't be 70 I hear you all shout. Mentally I would totally agree, physically however I might have to start agreeing. I seem to be sticking it to the stick much more often these days and I've promised Annie and Linda I will start the knee replacement process. Anyhow enough of the gloom, it was a truly fabulous day. Cheeky Linda and Ian had decorated the outside of our cabin which obviously we didn't notice until coming out for breakfast. Very embarrassing but it meant I got to have a long chat with the Rhinestone cowboy who was celebrating his 25th wedding anniversary , we matched on the same ship's cakes, but with a different legend. #haha The day was spent relaxing mostly on the balcony with the usual cruise interruption for a top up of food, what's the line , "come on as passenger, go off as cargo" #smile I had pre booked my birthday meal for Le Petit Chef experience and it was certainly memorable. The beef wellington element in terms of food was mouthwatering. See the videos especially those of the little chef in action, memorable and completely different.
After the meal in the evening, we went to the theatre which although spectacular was a little confusing. Tired we retired a very very HAPPY and memorable 70th birthday, thanks to all for making it so much fun.
TUESDAY 17th SEPTEMBER, ICY STRAITS POINT
We completed the inside passage and arrived at the Hoonah collective made cruise ship terminal at Icy Straits point, the 2nd highest location for our trip in Southern Alaska below Skagway however. Beautiful sunshine as we arrived c 1.30pm. After disembarkation and a nice walk across the bridge we exchanged our excursion passes for the red gondola ride to the top of the mountain and the forest excursion tram. We ascended to be afforded some wonderful views and a chat with 2 Americans whilst we waited for our forest ride. A local Klink-it (pronunciation not spelling which was Tsilingit band) elder did some tribal demoes around the fire, all very interesting. The forest tram ride was very informative and asking questions of the Kling-it driver it was totally clear that they would favour independence from the states, which my guess is will never happen, too much rich minerals and oil at stake. The driver also told me that they had started with 4 cruise ships day, they are now up to 260+ per months so a steady stream of profit for them. Anyhow have a look at the slideshows.
WEDNESDAY 180924 SKAGWAY, YUKON SUSPENSION BRIDGE & WHITE PASS RAILWAY
Arrived whilst it was still dark in Skagway. We had by now mastered the fine art of ordering breakfast and having it delivered to the door on our selected time in the next morning. Luxury, you just leave your order sheet pinned to the cabin door handle, and they deliver, I've tried it since we are home but sadly it didn't work #haha Anyhow as our trips in Skagway started early it was ideal. It was a full day but in our humble opinion the best day in Alaska, truly memorable, nice to share with Linda and Ian. Initially a coach trip up to the Yukon border meaning we crossed back from the States into Canada, initially visiting the Yukon Suspension bridge and as our driver, a resident of Skagway got us their early we had the place to ourselves, as we were leaving the tourist coaches were filling up. We even got our passport stamped, a touristy thing similar to the forgotten world highway in New Zealand. After that he collected us and took us to the Fraser border crossing to board the White Pass and Yukon train back into Skagway, one of the real great train journey, following the gold mining Klondike trail. Have a look at the slideshows, the second of which about 4 minutes in will give you a complete train journey. Hope you enjoy! The coach driver told us that by 20th October more than half the population of Skagway, himself included, would leave Skagway for the winter, no cruise ships, no employment and mostly stuck indoors. They all head off to Whitehorse and way beyond for the winter.
THURSDAY 190924 ENDICOTT ARM, DAWES GLACIER, JUNEAU
Another early rise but just so worth it, initially dark when we entered the Endicott Arm, which is traditionally a fjord, not naturally associated with Alaska. Some fabulous views and then the first teeny icebergs came floating by, which got more and more intense as we approached the end of the fjord which is the Dawes glacier. The captain did a 360 degree turn as close as he dared to the glacier having already announced that this was the most ice he had ever seen, now was another ship and icebergs but the less said about that the better. Such spectacular views, waterfalls everywhere, some elements of Milford sound as a comparison. We were treated to Dr Ann's commentary to accompany the voyage up the fjord to the glacier which created some wonderful learning points. After the glacier we headed off to Alaska's capital. Linda and Ian did the Mildenhall glacier trip, we walked around, did a bit of tourist shopping, called in at the cultural centre, had a chat with an elder and admired many woven rugs and totem poles. Juneau is fairly cut off but there were still a surprising number of cars there. The road runs out in about 37 miles from downtown. Annie was a little tired so returned to the cabin. I decided to go up Mount Roberts via the Goldbelt Tram, the mist faded, and I got some fabulous views from the top. Sadly, we were not allowed out, probably sensibly, because of the presents of a bear at the top a few days earlier. On descending I walked along the board walk past the brewery (no I didn't go in, honest) reading up on the Haida culture as I went. We all met up in the restaurant for evening meal before going to the show. Served ably by Kier who was great and his boss Miguel who was...less good and a little to pushy on "good feedback, I need score 10" #smile
FRIDAY 200924 KETCHIKAN, A VERY WET DAY
We arrived in a very wet Ketchikan having had lunch with Linda and Ian. After their glacier tour yesterday Linda was feeling exhausted and didn't want to go on the crab fishing trip with Ian, we were asked but passed. Annie and I left the ship for literally 5 minutes, it never stopped pouring down. We had a chat with the ex-harbour master who offered us a free trip on his salmon boat, we declined far to choppy and wet. He told us they were down on visitors in Ketchikan today as 4 cruise ships had decided not to land. Anyhow we all met up for supper in the restaurant later, Ian had been at a crab feast (not their catch I'm afraid as not eco) so only joined us for puddings.
SATURDAY 210924 LAST DAY AT SEA, INSIDE PASSAGE THEN DISEMBARKATION
The last day was spent at sea, relaxing , watching the Inside Passage views, admiring both the British Columbian coastline as well as that of Vancouver island as we traversed between the two, eating, drinking, chatting and playing trivia games in the observation lounge (guess the Diva music - Hmm the modern ones we really didn't know but Tina etc. were easy) and at about 5am on the 22nd being docked in Canada place, downtown Vancouver. It has been a wonderful trip.
CANADA
This is our 3rd trip to Canada, once in 1999 when we travelled very similar the same path to this trip with Doug aged 15 and then again in 2010 which enabled us to say we have travelled from west to east coast of Canada in a hired motorhome. We say mile 0 of the Trans Canada Highway (TCH) on Vancouver island in the park and we have also been to North Sydney in Nova Scotia where it apparently officially ends but as you can see from the map we have even been further through Newfoundland and Labrador as far as Red Bay. So we have probably travelled most of the TCH's 7476 km's. If you want to see some of our previous Canadian travels https://www.holiday2010.co.uk/ please do. This trip was basically Vancouver, Tsawwassen (in Delta), Vancouver Island featuring Swartz Bay, Sidney, Cordover Bay, Victoria, Saanich, Hope, Merritt, Kamloops, Chase, Salmon Arm, Sicamous, Revelstoke, Roger's Pass, Golden, Banff, Canmore, Dead Man's Flats (love that name), Stoney trail around Calgary, Airdrie, Olds, Red Deer, Stettler and back to Vancouver. What a privilege it was to travel on the Rocky Mountaineer.
BRITISH COLUMBIA
The home of Vancouver Island, we travelled through all of British Columbia (BC) west to east then east to west on this trip firstly by foot, ferry and car, then the Rocky Mountaineer back westward. The border with Alberta is between Field and Lake Louise although the time zone changed around about Golden in BC. Field was a fascinating place but the scenery through BC is spectacular. There is no point in me using words, just look at each individual day's images.
I also learnt a lot not least that Victoria on Vancouver Island is the provincial capital not Vancouver, its biggest city or Raincouver as we learnt to name it.
Driving from Vancouver to Kamloops on the TransCanada Highway 1 is a scenic adventure through some of British Columbia's most beautiful landscapes
Here's what you'll see along the way:
Vancouver to Hope
Fraser Valley: Start with the fertile farmlands and charming small towns of the Fraser Valley.
Coastal Mountains: As you head east, you'll enter the lush, wet coastal mountains, with dense forests and rushing rivers.
Hope to Lytton
Coquihalla Highway: This section offers stunning views of the Coquihalla River and the surrounding mountains.
Lytton: Known for its hot summers, Lytton is nestled in a narrow valley with the Thompson River running through it.
Lytton to Kamloops
Lytton Canyon: A dramatic landscape with steep cliffs and the Thompson River winding through1.
Desert-Like Terrain: As you approach Kamloops, the scenery transitions to a more arid, desert-like landscape with rolling hills and sagebrush.
Kamloops
Welcome to Kamloops: A charming city surrounded by mountains and situated on the North Thompson River.
This drive offers a mix of lush forests, dramatic canyons, and desert-like landscapes, making it a memorable journey through British Columbia's diverse natural beauty
FRIDAY 130924 HEATHROW TO VANCOUVER
Left from home reasonably early just in case there were any further issues with the car, couldn't afford to miss the plane. Meet and greet at Heathrow terminal 2 was fairly painless once we had paid a fortune being in the lower levels which sign posted M&G, silly us, should have realised its actually on level 4, location row B. Note to self for next time at Heathrow "get it right" #smile
So, the Air Canada flight was OK, not like the return journey but that is another story. Watched the Amy Winehouse biopic "back to black" but as I had a window seat spent a lot of time enjoying initially the Faroes, then Iceland with a spectacular shot over Isafjordur, then Greenland which seemed to be totally ice, wonder why it was not called Whiteland ? Then it was Hudson Bay and some of those Eastern Canada / Nunavut / Yukon areas until we landed in Vancouver. It was raining hence Raincouver. The scheduled taxi was late but eventually we met Sunny a lovely man whom we grew fond of over the holiday. Sunny ferried us to the Carey Centre, we saw the Coyote in the grounds and eventually jet lagged out slept well. We were in North America keen for the days ahead!
SATURDAY 140924 WET LOCAL WALK AROUND UBC PLUS JET LAG SNOOZE
Slept somewhat erratically, not surprisingly as no idea which time zone we were in. Had a lovely included breakfast in University , such a lovely lady serving and then booked lunch and dinner at the uni, both of which were very good. Went out so a walk around the area, it rained consistently and some kind ladies advised us not to go down to the beach as steep and slippy steps. Good advice. We did find a coast viewing spot but as Annie's knee was hurting we returned to the campus and read / drifted off to sleep in between meals. Good to catch up before our Alaskan adventure. We also learnt quite a bit about William Carey, the missionary after whom the Carey Centre is named, this area was big theology departments.
SUNDAY 220924 FERRY, MEET UP WITH DAVID & CATHY, SIDNEY
Sunny picked us up from the cruise ship terminal at Canada Place, well not quite. Our ship had arrived early, and they let us off really early and customs was a breeze, so I had texted Sunny to let him know the pickup time had been bought forward. He couldn't park where we had been dropped off by Oscar, so he asked us to make our way to the front of the Pan Pacific hotel just outside Canada place car park. He drove us through Richmond and Delta plus other areas to Tsawwassen, which was so much more built up than we remembered it for 1999. Quite a long limo journey, probably about 45 minutes. Then we got our ferry tickets, very cheap as foot passengers, weight our bags and sent them on as checked luggage, good stuff. Long queue to get on with lots of sports teams going back to the island, maybe they had been to Kamloops, he capital of mediocre tournaments on a Saturday, who knows. I texted David to say we were on the 10 am ferry, the journey is about 90 minutes. Amazed at the number of islands the ferry traverses around. David picked us up, Cathy was at church. So lovely to see them again. Travelled to Sidney, which I do remember from years back. David showed us a co habiting house set up they had looked at and explained what it was all about, sounds like their future. We then had a coffee and a lot of catch up, Cathy joining us. A stroll around the lovely Sidney and a fab fish restaurant on the sea front, bliss. After that we went to check in at the Air B&B in Cordova bay. Tee hee it was lovely but at the top of a steep hill and the key lock was bust so the front fell into the bushes . David kindly retrieved it #hero We then parted company to settle in, D&C house sitting just down the road. A fun day. Keef bought Annie some Canadian socks in one of the shops the ladies enticed us men to enter #haha
MONDAY 230924 70th LUNCH IN BC's VICTORIA PROVINCIAL PARLIAMENT
After breakfast and sitting out on the balcony reading and admiring the coast , David and Cathy arrived, after a quick catch up we headed off into Victoria. Cathy dropped the 3 of us near the parliament building and went and parked somewhere she knew about. We went through security, were given BC badges having parted with driving licenses as security , waited for Cathy, it what seemed like the dungeon or prison wing of an old Victorian building, in fact the BC parliament building. The Harvey's had kindly booked us in for lunch. It was a lovely lunch even if our waitress was a bit brusque, maybe she had been a prison warder there in a previous life #smile After lunch we had a stroll along the front with a brilliant set of tour guides, D&C, must give great feedback on trip advisor. We saw all the boats, including the bath tubs to Fisherman's wharf plus the front of the Empress, minus it's Virginia creeper after all these years, spruced up by Fairmont hotels which it is now owed by (along with Banff Springs and Le Château Frontenac in Quebec city. We visited the tourist info, spent time in Cathy's favourite Rogers chocolates, saw the floral killer whale display and then had a good nose inside the Empress, to the point where Keef was told he was not a resident and was not allowed out on the roof top garden, shame! Some fab architecture, all exhausted after that we returned to Cordova bay for the evening.
TUESDAY 240924 US IN VICTORIA WITH D&C, LINDA IN VANCOUVER
David and Cathy picked us up early, wonderful sunny day, for breakfast at a Gluten Free (Cathy is) cafe in the Saanich area called Charlotte and the Quail, food to die for and pretty good coffee. The lady serving us what a little high pitched, but we soon got over that as the food arrived, it was totally yummy. After breakfast we had a good look around the attached formal gardens, manned mostly by volunteers and what a great job they had made of it. David bought a gardening book, and we all strolled around taking endless flower and tree photographs, and quite right too, a fab gardens. After that we drove up and up to the centre of the universe observatory, with spectacular views. You could see the Olympus mountains in Washington State. After this they took us on a fab drive along the truly tremendous coastal road, flash house and hotel viewing, gardens, traditional cemeteries, whale watching in the mist, until it cleared listening to the sound of ship's foghorns, then only the even more wonderful Fisherman's wharf with its quirky housing and residents to match. #superb We had beer , wine and fish (halibut or salmon) and chips on the sea harbour front until such time as the temperature dropped. It being quite late in the eve , about 7.30 pm if memory serves me right, we returned to Cordova Bay, all in all a fab, fun day with many laughs.
WEDNESDAY 250924 A VERY WET DAY IN CORDOVA BAY PLUS BBQ
Cathy's cousin and wife had returned late last night so they stayed there today, having to both catch up, pack and tidy up after spending a while in their house both house and cat sitting. Max (the cat) certainly matched his name. I joked that he was a skinny thing before the Harvey's arrived and over fed him #teehee We picked a good day to chill, relax and read, the rain was torrential nearly all day both Vancouver and Victoria get their fair share of "weather". Cathy had given me some halibut and salmon her cousin had caught the night before and they did some shopping kindly for us I did a fish and salad BBQ in the evening, David had bought an apple crumble for pud and Cathy had cheese and bikkies. This was our last night together, we will miss them, we had an extraordinarily good time together, thanks so much for your hospitality, David and Cathy #missingyoualready
We stayed in contact via text whilst we each went our separate ways.
THURSDAY 260924 HOP ON HOP OFF BUS VICTORIA & CHINATOWN
After showers etc., and a cooked brekkie to keep us going, we noticed a cracked window in the bathroom which was either there before or not? Victoria had had a 4.1 earthquake over night. Anyhow we got an uber to the Empress in Victoria and caught the Hop On Hop off bus , doing a complete circuit first around, much of which we recognised from the Harvey's guided tour. All hugely interesting with commentary on the bus. We were glad we stayed on to take the bus to Chinatown as lots a cruise ships were in later and the bus and place were heaving. Chinatown is very interesting, we visited the free museum down Fan Pan alley (sometimes referred to as tin pan alley) We had a lovely coffee (the best in Canada or Alaska) at a coffee shop just outside Chinatown plus lovely cake and bought a pasty to take back to cottage. It was raining a lot so we called it a day at about 4pm and got a uber back to Cordova Bay. Nice tea, packing for early start tomorrow and earlyish to bed for our onward travels and new adventures.
FRIDAY 270924 FERRY BACK TO VANCOUVER, PICK UP CAR, DRIVE TO KAMLOOPS
Up early, it was still dark, rang for an uber which annoying always stopped one block away in the main road down the hill. Care when putting the key back in the cottage outside key safe, as pitch black i didn't want to drop it, especially as the battery in my phone was now regularly dying. Wheeled the suitcases to the top of the hill, in the dark. Keef went slowly down to the main road , found the uber guy, and got him to drive up the hill to collect Annie and the suitcase, good driver, took us to Swartz bay. Ferry back to Tsawwassen, Sunny was waiting for us and kindly took us to the Avis office at Vancouver airport in Richmond. Checked in, picked up the keys, loaded the cases and off we went. Bit nerve wracking initially in a very busy Vancouver but soon got used to it and we were on Highway 1 heading towards Hope. After Hope it was onto to Kamloops, we stopped for both refreshments, mediocre coffee and many photo opportunities. A good days travel. We arrived in Kamloops as it was getting dark, some lovely colours on the hills. Kamloops is semi-arid. Kamloops is known as the "Tournament City of Canada" basically because on Saturdays the hotels / motels are free from Rocky Mountaineer travellers, the train comes into Kamloops 6 days a week, 3 journeys in either direction and that was true when we arrived late on a Friday evening and surprisingly found everything initially was fully booked with parents and their young lads for a mini baseball league tournament. As one of the wags on our train journey said you are most likely to end up in conversation with a mediocre lacrosse player #haha We did eventually find accommodation at the Ramada which had a great breakfast included in the price, which was quite high at approx. £175 but nothing in comparison to the extortionate price charged in Canmore the next day at £235 and there was no breakfast #ripoff
THURSDAY 031024 ROCKY MOUNTAINEER DAY 2 - Kamloops to Vancouver
Kamloops back to Vancouver Canadian National Railway (CN) station. We had been delivered to the Canadian Pacific (CP) station in Kamloops the night before, quite late, and after the key fiasco we were a little jaded in the morning, I had had bad cramp in the leg probably from sitting all day the day before, however we were LOVING the Rocky Mountaineer, one of the world's true great train journeys. Today's scenery was spectacular but different from Day 1 in mostly in Alberta and the Rockies, more lakes that rivers today. Oh, and the food and drink was pretty premium as well, so glad we did this! See the slideshows and videos to get a true feel of the day. We also got to see the famous "last spike"
We chatted a bit to our new Australian friends from Penrith. Once we had arrived in Vancouver, not the greatest views in that last hour, we caught a taxi to the Carey Centre, checked in , resorted the bags for flight home tomorrow and exhausted , early mornings on the train had been a bit boot camp.
On the Rocky Mountaineer journey from Kamloops to Vancouver, you'll pass by several beautiful lakes. Here are the main ones:
Enderby Lake: Located near the start of your journey, this lake offers scenic views as you head west.
Shuswap Lake: One of the largest lakes in British Columbia, Shuswap Lake is known for its stunning scenery and recreational activities.
Little Shuswap Lake: A smaller lake near Shuswap Lake, offering picturesque views along the way.
Nicola Lake: As you continue your journey, you'll pass by Nicola Lake, nestled in the Nicola Valley.
Coquihalla Lake: Located near the end of your journey, this lake provides a beautiful backdrop as you approach Vancouver.
These lakes contribute to the breathtaking scenery and make the journey an unforgettable experience
FRIDAY 041024 CAREY CENTRE THEN FLY BACK HOME
Bit of a lie in as no rush today and we were ahead of the game. Lovely extended breakfast in the uni canteen. Checked our just before 11 and waited for Sunny to come and collect us. He took us to terminal 2 at Vancouver airport, we had a bit of time to kill before we could check in at 1.40 pm, but time went quickly. Once thru security we had a meal, the plane left on time, but this was definitely the worst of the flights. Folk were in our seats and had to be evicted , the charger didn't work, the movie wasn't great (a Kevin Costner Cowboy) and the food was even worse. Still, we got back to Heathrow, had to register the fact that they had lost our suitcase , picked up car easily and drive home, stopping for coffee and some minor provisions, tried to stay up as long as we could then crashed at about 8 pm. We were home. What a FAB holiday.
ALBERTA
After Field on the TCH we entered the Banff National Park and for us the start of our Alberta time. As we were not visiting David and Cathy in Edmonton this time as had a fab time meeting up in Victoria, we travelled around Calgary on the Stoney Trail on up through Airdrie Red Deer, the David Thompson highway , Summer River and into Stettler for 2 days principally to meet up with Annie's cuz Rob, but Stettler itself proved to be a very interesting Prairie town.
Driving from Canmore to Stettler via Red Deer, while avoiding Drumheller, offers a mix of scenic landscapes and charming towns. Here's what you'll see along the way:
Canmore to Calgary
Bow Valley Parkway: Enjoy stunning views of the Rocky Mountains, including the Three Sisters peaks and the Bow River.
Canmore: A charming town surrounded by mountains, perfect for a quick stop to stretch your legs.
Calgary to Red Deer
Calgary: The bustling city offers plenty of amenities if you need to stop for supplies.
Highway 2: As you head east, you'll pass through the Calgary-Edmonton Corridor, with farmlands and small towns.
Red Deer: A vibrant city with a mix of urban amenities and natural beauty, including the Red Deer River.
Red Deer to Stettler
Open Prairies: The drive through the Central Alberta region offers wide-open prairies with rolling hills and farmland.
Buffalo Lake: Just south of Stettler, this lake offers beautiful scenery, day-use areas, beaches, and opportunities for outdoor activities like fishing and boating.
Stettler
Welcome to Stettler: A quaint town with a rich agricultural history, surrounded by picturesque farmland.
This route provides a diverse experience, from mountain vistas to prairie landscapes, making it a memorable journey through Alberta's beautiful countryside.
SATURDAY 280924 KAMLOOPS TO CANMORE VIA BANFF
After a hearty breakfast in the Ramada Kamloops, shared with a visiting 1st nations excursion group, we packed up checked out and hit the road with a lot of distance to travel today. We saw Salmon Arm (not great), 3 valleys gap, Revelstoke where we stopped for Pharmacy and Post office , Golden for Tim Horton's and lunch and clock change, as well as seeing lots en route. We thought we might stay in Banff for the night but as gridlock struck as we drove in we rapidly changed our minds. Saturday evening, Rocky Mountaineer train in, it was heaving and our budget didn't stretch to the Fairmont Banff Springs hotel. Interesting that Fairmont now own most of these classic Canadian railway hotels, Empress, Banff Springs, Frontenac etc. etc. So we went onto Canmore, filled with fuel and set about finding a place for the night. Wow Canmore is expensive.! See our slideshow. At the ski lodge we saw 2 guys kite surfing if that's the correct term, not something we would ever entertain at 70 #smile
Here is the Trip Advisor review I left for the rip-off Rocky Mountain Ski Lodge, we have never been so disappointed or overcharged.
"A COMPLETE RIP-OFF! No price list on display when we arrived. Extortionate charges for a one bed queen / no breakfast. As pensioners we were even promised a discount, but I’ve checked my bank statement, and the full price was charged so that was a lie. $420 cad / £229. We could have stayed in a posh London hotel for less, indeed I told the receptionist this. She told us it was high season, and the price dropped when the snow fell , which must be rubbish as it’s a ski lodge and winter will be when they make their money. It feels like they just charge what they like to tourists. Surely a reputable business should have its price list on display. I am even more upset that I could have got the same via the UK if I had pre booked for £75. I will advise my family and friends in the UK and Canada to NEVER use “Rocky Mountain Ski Lodge” Even the car park was a waterlogged dirt track and as disabled we had to lug suitcases upstairs after they got dirty thru the mud bath car park. So, so ripped off and angry."
SUNDAY 290924 CANMORE TO STETTLER
We packed up at our hugely overpriced one bed in Canmore, it was pouring at the time so the muddy car park was awash with water and mud. I carefully carried each suitcase over the obstacle course to put each in the boot / trunk trying for as little mudslide as possible but slightly failing. We called in at reception to check out vowing never to return, at least to that establishment. We filled up with gas and had breakfast at one of the fast-food joints. Wendy's I think, perfectly adequate for our journey onto Stettler in the Prairies. Back on Trans-Canada Highway one we made our way around Calgary on the Stoney Trail, up through the outskirts of Red Deer and onto the David Thompson highway, where we stopped for the autumn colours at the Summer river before reaching Stettler where we had a subways for lunch before checking in at the Super 8 motel.
One of the most amusing stories was when we arrived in Stettler at the Super8 (ok maybe not so super #smile more Adequate8) and checking in the lady asked us where we were from, we answered with our usual Nottingham, home of Robin Hood and Kevin Costner, and said we were there to meet Annie's cousin Rob Littlejohn, she laughed obviously not believing the coincidence , that was until I told her my real name was Will Scarlet #youcouldntmakeitup
MONDAY 300924 MEET UP WITH ROB AND SANDY IN STETTLER
Up early we had a really good breakfast at the Super 8, chatting to the lovely receptionist who was amazingly friendly. It is worth noting that 2 nights at the Super 8 and breakfasts was still vastly cheaper than 1 night in Canmore, you can tell I don't like getting ripped off! Anyhow after brekkie we drove around to discover Stettler especially the grain stores on the outskirts and surrounding the main downtown. Stettler has a mini stampede to rial Calgary, well when I say rival I clearly don't mean it. We liked Stettler , it had a lovely feel to it, to call it a one-horse town is unfair, I saw 2 #smile We went shopping in Dollerama and Walmart then returned to our room and waited for Rob & Sandy to arrive, what nice people. Annie had not met her cousin before. We had coffee in the cafe (lots of it and various interruptions from an over attentive lady waitress) however I did earn something about CFL Canada's equivalent of gridiron. We then had some drinks and a meal, the afternoon was a delight hatting about just about everything under the sun, with a lot of humour chucked in for good measure. So glad we made the effort to meet up, too good an opportunity to miss.
TUESDAY 011024 STETTLER TO BANFF
We had breakfast with Rob and Sandy, got the receptionist to take some photos, said our goodbyes , packed our cases and set off back to Banff taking a slightly different route back to the Queen Elizabeth Highway, cross land as directed by the Jeep's satnav, sadly because there were lots of road works (or construction as it is know in Canada). One back on the main highway it was full steam ahead, past Airdrie, Stoney Trail around Calgary, back onto the TCH 1 and into Canmore having first pulled into various tourist spots on route for some Fuji moments. Filled up the car in Canmore as had to return it full of gas. In Banff it was still raining but we stopped in front of the mega Banff Springs hotel, then checked in at the Bow View Lodge hotel, our refuge for the night prior to our well awaited Rocky Mountaineer train ride tomorrow. With time to spare until 4 we called in at the Avis office who said not here, all very confusing for car returns #recommendation You have to drop off in the bottom 2 floors of the local car park, shame Avis did not mention that, oh well, sorted we walked back to the hotel in the rain, it was not very far. After 4 we went and did the Rocky Mountaineer guest formal check in in the local mall, they gave us both a pin badge and sadly a load of irrelevant drivel, but hey the trip was magnificent. So it was early to bed for pick up in the morning. Cases would go straight onto the Coast hotel in Kamloops by coach and we passengers would be ferried to the train. Nice views of the Bow river outside our window. In the eve we ate at splendid Italian Lupo Restaurant in Wolf Street, and it was good.
WEDNESDAY 021024 ROCKY MOUNTAINEER DAY 1 - Banff to Kamloops
Up early at the Bow View Lodge hotel. Suitcases packed and downstairs in the lobby with quite a few other folk waiting to be transported to the Canadian Pacific Railway (CP) line station at Banff. Now we knew the guy at check in last night had lied when we said we had booked that hotel because it was where the coach picked you up from. He promised if we had to walk around the corner their staff would wheel our suitcases , clearly that didn't happen, not great service from Rocky Mountaineer, but in fairness the luxury of being promoted from Silver leaf service to Gold leaf service for no extra cost was brilliant. We were now in an observation car and our luxury food and drinks was served directly at our seat for us #luxury There was even a light dusting of snow in the Rockies getting down to ground level at times, such a romantic journey, the Christmas tree effect with snow was spectacular. We passed over / alongside 5 rivers. Loved every moment of this trip. See the slideshows of images and the movies taken whilst the train was rolling! Due to numerous reasons, mostly the hold ups due to cargo which has priority on the CP lines our train was running very late, so the chef prepared an evening meal for us (normally taken in Kamloops) and very nice it was to. We arrived at the CP station in Kamloops (not the one the train would leave from tomorrow) and were coached to our Coast hotel, which after a fiasco with room keys meant we got to bed about 10pm, a very satisfying day.
On the Rocky Mountaineer train journey from Banff to Kamloops, you'll cross several beautiful rivers1. Here are the five main rivers you'll see:
Bow River: This iconic river flows through Banff and offers stunning views as you start your journey.
Kicking Horse River: Known for its turquoise waters, this river is a highlight as you travel through the Canadian Rockies.
Yoho River: As you pass through Yoho National Park, you'll see the Yoho River winding through the stunning mountain scenery.
Columbia River: This river marks the border between British Columbia and Alberta, offering breathtaking views.
North Thompson River: As you approach Kamloops, you'll cross the North Thompson River, which flows through Kamloops and is a key feature of the landscape.
These rivers contribute to the breathtaking scenery and make the journey an unforgettable experience.
AUDIOBOOK
If you would prefer to hear the blog rather than read it, here you go.
CLIPPINGS
Here are some clippings from the trip that we haven't included in the individual slideshows for what ever reason. Held here for memorabilia reasons.
THE BEST SLIDESHOWS
Split in two we have the best of family and friends images taken on the trip and then just images that I quite like. All these are obviously included in the individual days write ups with slideshows but are shown here as a highlights. #enjoy
The absolute best on the trip was being able to share it with family and friends, and spending my 70th birthday on the way to Alaska with Linda and Ian and the Petit Chef, what amazing visuals and culinary creations to match the work done by the little chef. I will never forget that.
So two family and friends highlight slideshows. Alaska followed by Canada.
And now some highlights taken at various location on the trip. Firstly Alaska then Canada.
That's all for now for the highlights, trust you enjoyed as much as I did putting it together for this travel bog #KHWD #KeefHWebDesigns
THE END
Thanks for persevering through the travel blog, I know it is quite long but just so wanted to capture this lifetime legacy trip.
What a fab trip!